Yes, that's plural. You'll want a separate hose for drinking water and for flushing your tanks.

A drinking water hose is a dedicated hose for carrying potable (safe to drink) water to your RV. Look for hoses labeled as "drinking water safe" or "potable water safe." These hoses are typically white or blue to distinguish them from regular garden hoses. If you're going to be schlepping that hose around, you'd be best to grab one that's LIGHT and FLEXIBLE. Many people opt for the Zero-G hose, which checks all the boxes. It's our favorite for drinking water.

You'll want a second hose that's dedicated to flushing your tanks. There are back-flow prevention mechanisms on the RV flush ports to prevent that contaminated water from flowing backward into the hose, but you can never exercise enough caution in my opinion. Go ahead and grab a second hose that's easily distinguishable from your FRESH water hose. We like this one because it takes up so little space and is exceptionally light.

The truth of the matter is - water pressure fluctuates from one spigot to the next. RV plumbing is built to tolerate ~55 PSI of water pressure. The best way to ensure you have consistent pressure going into your RV is to get yourself a good water pressure regulator. 

A sewer hose is a critical component for emptying your RV's holding tanks at an appropriate station. It is designed to be flexible, durable, and able to handle the sometimes messy task of emptying waste. Look for a hose with appropriate length, thickness, and quality connections to ensure a secure and leak-free connection to the RV and the dump station.

If you're planning to have long-term stays, utilizing full-hookup sites, you'll want a waste hose that can withstand some abuse such as being stepped on or ridden over with a bike or lawn tractor.  (It happens. Trust me.) You'll also need a ramp to support the waste hose and provide a gradual slope toward the drain. 

If you're not planning to stay hooked up during your stay, we like the RhinoFLEX hose because of how well it collapses for storage. Both of these kits come with the standard clear elbow and 4-in-1 adapter that will help you to fit to most sewer station openings.

You'll want to store these items carefully for obvious reasons. It's best to keep these sewer handling components stored away from anything you don't want contaminated. We recommend a Valterra Hose Carrier that mounts under the RV. This is the easiest way to contain the mess away from everything else.  IMPORTANT NOTE: the RhinoFLEX hose doesn't fit in the tube because of the permanently mounted elbow. This is one of the reasons we stopped using it. The other is that it got stepped on one too many times. :)

There will be times when you want to camp at a site that doesn't have a power connection that matches your RV. In these cases, you'll need an adapter. Now, it's important to understand that the adapter will NEVER step up the amount of available power. So if the supply is smaller than your RV is wired for, you'll need to use fewer appliances while on the step-down adapter.

For example, your 50-amp rig is parked near a power post that only has a 30-amp plug available. You'll need a  30-amp male to 50-amp female Adapter. Or if you want to plug in your 30-amp RV at home, you'll need a 30-amp female to 15-amp male adapter.  Similarly, you could plug your 50-amp rig into a household outlet if you are preparing for a trip and ONLY want to run the refrigerator and keep the batteries charged. For this, you would need one of each of the adapters above, but again, I emphasize the safety issue of running too many things. You'll overload the circuit and create a potential fire hazard.

First of all, we need to establish whether your RV has leveling jacks or stabilizing jacks at the corners. This is super important, because a stabilizer jack should NEVER be used for leveling. If this is the case for your rig, you'll first need to get level using just the wheels. You can carry around wood blocks, or your can get one of these nice leveler kits. Full disclosure - we haven't used these levelers ourselves. When we had an RV with stabilizers, we carried around pieces of wood! Another option is the interlocking blocks that can be configured as ramps. We still carry some, but we find that they don't hold up well under a lot of weight.

If you are blessed with leveling jacks, there are several configurations that you should consider to protect your leveler feet, and to maximize the stability. First of all, you'll always want those feet to land on a relatively level surface. When we first started traveling, we used wood blocks. We have since found Ox Blox, and we love them! We've also been using SnapPads since the beginning and love that they're always ready to go. But there are times when you want risers to help keep things more stable. Did you know that you'll get more stability if your jacks don't have to extend very far? It's true! So with our SnapPads in place, we prefer the Ox Blox Ultra, which accommodate our larger leveler feet. They are really well built, and you can even get a set of rubber pads to put under the blocks for gravel and loose dirt applications. 

When it comes to safety and preventing accidents, wheel chocks are essential. Wheel chocks are placed in front of or behind the wheels of the trailer before it is unhitched to prevent unintended movement. The chocks keep the vehicle stationary, reducing the risk of it rolling and causing injury to those in or around it. Don't skip this important item in your gear bag! Our favorites are these SecurityMan Heavy Duty Chocks. They're very sturdy, but also light weight.